Research - Victorian Beauty Ideals

Victorian Hair

Below are a series of collages I made with images of Plates from the 'Fashions in Hair' book by Richard Corson. I have chosen the plates I feel sum up the era well and help to support my information/research I have gathered.

Early Victorian Men (1830-1860)

1830 - 1840 - In this part of the period, hair length was generally short to medium in length and fairly ruffled and messy with waves that were often swept to the side. Side burns / mutton chops were sometimes seen but facial hair in general was minimal.

1840 - 1850 - Hair has increased in length since the 30s and has become more medium to long in length. Hair is generally straight but occasionally some subtle waves. No facial hair was still seen but sometimes alone beards, mustaches or a combination of both was starting to come into fashion.

1850 - 1860 - Hair has become shorter again, usually sitting just below the ears. The hair is usually textured with waves. Facial hair has almost completely gone but side burns or mutton chops are sometimes present.

Late Victorian Men (1860-1900)

1860 - 1870 - Hair is now usually just above the ears and either straight or flicked at the ends. The parting is usually at the side or swept back. Full facial hair is in fashion but also sometimes a beard with a mustache is seen.

1870 - 1880 - Hair is still often short and facial hair has lessened again to no facial hair or a mustache on it's own. Only sometimes a beard is present.

1880 - 1890 - Hair is now even shorter and neat and often straight. Sometimes the hair is long but quite rare. Mustaches, often paired with beards is now in fashion.

Early Victorian Women (1830-1860)

1830 - 1840 - In this early part of the period, the hair is parted down the middle and often has a type of bun using the back section of the hair on the head. The remaining hair from the front section is plaited or made into ringlets from the ears down, leaving the top straight. The length of the hair usually ended around the jawline.

1840 - 1850 - The hair in this part of the period is very similar, only the hair is now longer and often finishes just past the collarbones. Occasionally, remaining hair that is down is plaited and brought back under the ears and the ends incorporated into the bun. 

1850 - 1860 - In this part of the period, the front section of the hair is parted down the middle and pulled back over the ears and is often waved. The back section is usually in a spiral twisted bun or rolled back with height.

1860s - Again, the hair is parted down the middle, only this time the front and back halves of the hair flow together rather than separated. The back rolling with height element of the 50s is now heavily used with much more visual complexity; coming in from various angles with various shapes and sizes.

Late Victorian Women (1870-1900)

1870 - 1880 - The hair has evolved even further from the 50s - 60s to now into the 70s. Hair rolls, also known as barrel curls, are used in abundance. The hair is covered in rolls starting from the front of the head coming all the way down to the very back. Occasionally, the hair may be finished off with ringlets falling from the very back.

1880 - 1890 - The fashion of the rolls are still going, only now they are starting to fizzle out subtly, with the rolls being kept to just the back section and front being brought back but waved. Tiny fringes at front of the hair that resemble baby hairs which were often curled are now seen.

1890 - 1900 - The hair is now all brought back in one continuous roll with added height around the head, all meeting in a small bun on the crown or just below. The bun sometimes features small adornments for evening wear.

1900s - The height of the hair leading to the bun has increased dramatically, as has the bun, which is now at the top of the head and styled in various creative ways.

For my final design, I plan to do a type of bun that is seen on the 1890-1900s plates, as the book I have chosen is set in 1897. This is very late Victorian, which is obvious due to it's similarities to the popular bouffant type bun seen in the Edwardian era which came not long after. Therefore, this hairstyle seems like a natural choice for my female character.

Victorian Make-up

Queen Victoria Picture: Queen Victoria. (n.d.). [image] Available at: http://www.scottish-country-dancing-dictionary.com/dance-crib/queen-victoria.html [Accessed 8 Feb. 2016].
King Edward Picture: King Edward. (n.d.). [image] Available at: http://cookit.e2bn.org/historycookbook/22-112-edwardians-and-ww1-Food-facts.html [Accessed 8 Feb. 2016].

In the Victorian era, make-up was something to be ashamed of. As Queen Victoria was in reign, she herself did not wear make-up, nor did she approve of it. During this era, royalty was extremely influential in terms of fashions and opinions, therefore this influenced what the people of the country of that era did. It is said that her son, who later became King Edward after Victoria's death, was highly promiscuous. Victoria blamed this on the influence of actresses and prostitutes, the only women of that time to wear make-up. Therefore, in Victoria's eyes, make-up equaled women of poor reputation. After Victoria's death, with King Edwards leniency, make-up was slowly started to be reintroduced into society.

A pale complexion was the height of fashion during the Victorian era and also suggested that you were not a working woman, and therefore were not in the outdoors long enough to get a tan. Women were supposed to be sweet, respectable and fragile in nature, and a pale skin was supposed to support this ideal. Unlike previous eras, a pale/white complexion was achieved with a non-toxic substance. This substance was Zinc Oxide, which was a white mineral powder. They sometimes even drank vinegar as they felt it helped to prevent a tan. 

Due to the secrecy surrounding cosmetics, they would be bought in secret and hidden in their rooms. Rouge was added to their cheeks with what was simply beet juice, which would be applied lightly to give a natural appearance. Eyeshadows were made with lead and antimony sulfide and lipsticks were made with mercuric sulfide - again, these were only applied to enhance features and were not applied in a way that would show they were wearing make-up.

Victorian Woman Picture: Victorian Woman. (2014). [image] Available at: https://uk.pinterest.com/explore/victorian-paintings/ [Accessed 8 Feb. 2016].

As my character is a Victorian Vampire, a lot of these traditional Victorian attributes cross-over with that of a Vampire. Therefore, I shall be ensuring that a very pale complexion and redness of the lips are key features in my design, as well as some subtle eye definition. Thankfully, these features do not interfere with a Vampire concept, therefore I will be able to incorporate them in a way which is historically accurate without reducing the impact of my design.

References for this post:

beautifulwithbrains.com, (2010). Beauty In The Victorian Age. [online] Available at: http://beautifulwithbrains.com/2010/08/06/beauty-in-the-victorian-age/ [Accessed 8 Feb. 2016].

Corson, R. (1965). Fashions in hair. New York: Hastings House.

Corson, R. (1972). Fashions in makeup. New York: Universe Books.

Research - Importance of Continuity

Blogger, (2016). Harry Potter. [image] Available at: http://nicklongfilmmaking.blogspot.co.uk/2015/02/the-filmmakers-guide-to-continuity.html [Accessed 14 Mar. 2016].

When creating a make-up design for a film or TV series, it is important to consider continuity. When the consideration of continuity is absent, it not only separates the audience from the escapism appeal of the film and bringing them to the reality of it's production, it also reflects badly on the quality of the film and therefore it's producers.

Continuity has to be maintained by the costume, make-up and set departments. Failure to do this is a poor reflection on the person(s) fulfilling their role and may even impact their future employment, therefore it is is even in their personal interest.

As a make-up artist, continuity can be maintained by taking their own personal continuity photos, making templates, writing notes and being on set and looking out for any changes to the hair and make-up during shooting that would impact it.

During the recreation of a make-up, a make-up artist can refer to these things to help them with continuity. Templates can be used to recreate exact placements and sizing of small prosthetics and other materials which can be inconsistent. Notes can allow them to refer to next steps that are taken during the application. Photos mean that you can pay close attention to detail to ensure that any outcomes that may not be clearly outlined in the design or notes that can be added again in the same way. 

Research - The Evolution of Fangs

A reoccurring feature among visual and descriptive representations of the Vampire is the fangs. Throughout history, fangs have been a key feature due to them being the tool to carry out the Vampire way of living - drawing blood. In modern day, regardless of the placement of the fangs among the mouth, the appearance of fangs on a human-like form is an instant recognition for the identification of a Vampire. I am going to research into the various placements and use of fangs on a Vampire character through looking at film and television and the approach to this key feature.

Film - Interview with the Vampire: The Vampire Chronicles (1994)

Directed by Neil Jordan

Interview with the Vampire. (2013). [image] Available at: http://thedancingrest.com/2013/07/08/different-vampire-teeth-for-different-movies/ [Accessed 7 Mar. 2016].

IwtV: Normal fangs. (2013). [image] Available at: http://thedancingrest.com/2013/07/08/different-vampire-teeth-for-different-movies/ [Accessed 7 Mar. 2016].

IwtV: Attack fangs. (2013). [image] Available at: http://thedancingrest.com/2013/07/08/different-vampire-teeth-for-different-movies/ [Accessed 7 Mar. 2016].

In this film, a very traditional looking set of fangs is used when the Vampire is going about it's regular life. The fangs are not too distinctive but are also clearly different from a normal person's set of teeth. When the Vampire is in attack mode, about to or currently feeding, the fangs grow slightly longer, sharper and more obvious in appearance. Although the fangs may appear traditional, a slight double-fang effect is done with a total of 4 fangs, 2 either side which are next to eachother, the inner ones being shorter and less sharp. Although I like this fang concept, I do not find it to be inspiring or interesting enough for me to want to have it in my design although I appreciate that it is both simple and unique.



Film - Fright Night (1985)
Directed by Tom Holland

Amy Peterson. (n.d.). [image] Available at: http://frightnight.wikia.com/wiki/Amy_Peterson [Accessed 7 Mar. 2016].

Andrew, R. (2015). Fright Night. [image] Available at: http://crypticrock.com/fright-night-a-decade-defining-horror-film-30-years-later/ [Accessed 7 Mar. 2016].

In this film, the fangs used are completely traditional in placement, with them being only on the canine teeth in a traditional human mouth set up. In this representation, like the previous film mentioned, there is also a difference between normal and attack Vampire mode. As shown in the image above, the mouth becomes unnaturally wide, and the teeth placement and quality becomes distorted. This Vampire representation is particularly disturbing to me (therefore effective) and likely to require a high set of make-up design skills which would be too advance for me to incorporate into my design at this stage.



Film - Nosferatu: A Symphony of Horror (1922)
Directed by F.W. Murnau

Nosferatu fangs. (2013). [image] Available at: http://thedancingrest.com/2013/07/08/different-vampire-teeth-for-different-movies/ [Accessed 7 Mar. 2016].

Nosferatu fangs representation. (2013). [image] Available at: http://thedancingrest.com/2013/07/08/different-vampire-teeth-for-different-movies/ [Accessed 7 Mar. 2016].

In this film, the fang placement is different from the norm. I find this particularly interesting due to the film being so old and yet there is such a big stray from the traditional aesthetics of the vampire. Typically, unique takes on the Vampire are seen in the late 20th Century but comes back around to traditions in modern day. To me, the way in which a fang puncture on the neck is described, it makes an awful lot of sense to have fangs set out this way as they are close together, as described in early Gothic Horror, yet the actual descriptions of fangs are on the canine teeth, which are too far away to create what is described. For this reason I chose this style of fangs for my design after reading early fang puncture descriptions as this is not only unique to typical takes but I also feel it makes a lot of logical sense too.



Film - From Dusk till Dawn (1996)
Directed by Robert Rodriguez

Pinterest, (2015). Snake Vampire. [image] Available at: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/500110733597833327/ [Accessed 7 Mar. 2016].

This Vampire adaptation is very interesting as it's a 'Snake-Vampire' hybrid which means that the design for the fangs was very particularly and also very unique. From what I can see, the design has made the placement of the fangs traditional, placed where you would expect human canine teeth to be. But, with this twist, there is no teeth in between, only gums, just like a snake. The fangs are also very long, thin and pointed like a snake. This adaptation makes a lot of sense as the teeth between fangs, as proved by real life snakes, are redundant in design. Obviously, these types of fangs would not have been appropriate as a design concept for my current level of skills, and also isn't necessary as mine is not a snake cross over, but regardless it works well.

Film - 30 Days of Night (2007)

Directed by David Slade

30 Days of Night fangs. (2013). [image] Available at: http://thedancingrest.com/2013/07/08/different-vampire-teeth-for-different-movies/ [Accessed 7 Mar. 2016].

In this film, as seen, this interpretation includes all of the teeth in the entire mouth to act as fangs. All of the teeth are sharp, but not particularly long. This is because the vampires in this film have a more of a 'eating' type of approach to attaining human blood, rather than simply drawing it with two simple fangs. This definitely adds more horror type aspect to the Vampire, as the conclusion of this type of feeding is most likely certain fairly quick death instead of other traditional outcomes post-feeding. I feel that this fang design is very particularly to the modernism of the film, as well as the individual characteristics of a Vampire here. Although I like this take on the design, it is not someting I can apply to my own due to it not relating close enough to my chosen character.

Tv Series - True Blood (2008 - 2014)
Directed by Alan Ball

McGarry, L. (2013). True Blood Fangs. [image] Available at: http://primetime.unrealitytv.co.uk/missing-true-blood-best-funniest-sexiest-alexander-skarsgard-pictures-from-around-the-internet-finale-spoilers/ [Accessed 7 Mar. 2016].

True Blood fangs representation. (2013). [image] Available at: http://thedancingrest.com/2013/07/08/different-vampire-teeth-for-different-movies/ [Accessed 7 Mar. 2016].

In the Tv series true blood, the fangs are typically hidden until it is feeding time. In which case, the fangs retract. Although these fangs are fairly traditional (like most modern day adaptations as stated before), this has a slight difference with the fangs being the next teeth in, the lateral incisors. To me, due to my previous point of the original descriptions of fang punctures being quite close together, this placement makes quite a lot of sense. Not only this, but when the audience sees a Vampire, in his obvious Vampire form, the actors mouth needs to only be slightly open for the fangs to be visible, which is more natural and obvious to show them off. For me, this one a close second consideration for my design approach as the consideration behind the design is one that is traditional, aesthetically pleasing and logical.

Research: What is 'Horror'?

"Horror

1. an intense feeling of fear, shock, or disgust.
"children screamed in horror"
synonyms: terror, fear, fear and trembling, fearfulness, fright, alarm, panic, dread, trepidation
"children screamed in horror"
antonyms: delight

2. a thing causing a feeling of horror.
plural noun: horrors
"photographs showed the horror of the tragedy"
synonyms: awfulness, frightfulness, cruelty, savagery, gruesomeness, ghastliness, hideousness;

3.a literary or film genre concerned with arousing feelings of horror.
"a horror film"

4.intense dismay.
"to her horror she found that a thief had stolen the machine"
synonyms: dismay, consternation, perturbation, alarm, distress; More
antonyms: satisfaction
humorous

5.used to express dismay.
exclamation: horrors; plural noun: horrors
"horrors, two buttons were missing!"

6.intense dislike.
"many have a horror of consulting a dictionary"
synonyms: hate, detest, loathe, greatly dislike, have a strong aversion to, abhor, abominate, be unable to bear/stand
"Laura had a horror of pubs"
antonyms: love

7. an attack of extreme nervousness or anxiety.
plural noun: horrors; plural noun: the horrors
"the mere thought of it gives me the horrors""

All text above is taken from the Google search definitions of 'Horror': 

https://www.google.co.uk/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=horror%20definition

Harvard Reference of text: Google, (n.d.). 'Horror Definition' Search Results. [online] Available at: https://www.google.co.uk/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=horror%20definition [Accessed 15 Feb. 2016].

The Horror Genre

Although I am looking at Horror from a genre perspective, I feel it is important to understand what the word 'Horror' means in other context as the definitions for the word coincide with the aspects of the genre. The 'Horror' genre is created to give the audience negative emotions. It is supposed to play on the audience's fears, nightmares, anxieties and even own negative experiences. The Horror genre is to, put simply, horrify us.

The Horror genre derived from the Gothic Horror genre. The classic novels were the initial direct inspiration for the Horror Genre in films, books and other media but has evolved over time, as has the audience. When the Horror genre came about, the idea was to shock the audience/reader by playing on old fears and creating new ones. Although that idea is still the same today, the Horror genre to a modern spectator is a much broader, and simply more direct and shocking than what was considered Horror when it first came about from the Victorian era.

Victorian Horror. (2014). [image] Available at: http://www.anglotopia.net/british-history/guest-long-read-victorian-spooks-charles-dickens-art-good-ghost-story/ [Accessed 15 Feb. 2016].

A key theme, which is not always seen to be obvious, but is reoccurring, is the theme of sex or lust. This theme was used, although not directly suggested, in most of the classic Gothic Horror books, particularly ones of a vampire focus. This theme is often taken from 2 completely different angles: the fear of rape, or the seduction of the unknown and forbidden. Books such as Dracula took the theme from both of these angles, from the force from Dracula on to Lucy, or the seduction of Mina. In modern film, these themes are a lot more literal and obvious. The appeal of sex used in horror is not simply because 'sex sells' but instead because it is in fact one of the most vulnerable moments in persons life - literally, due to being stripped to a naked self, or, emotionally, where a person is putting trust into a person by allowing intimacy. 

Dracula film. (n.d.). [image] Available at: http://cinemathequefroncaise.com/Chapter5-1/Read_05_01_DRACULA.html [Accessed 15 Feb. 2016].

In old Horror, the focus was typically on monsters: Vampires, werewolves, ghosts, witches, demons, etc. In modern Horror, the focus is typically on things we feel are more applicable to real life, such as psychopaths or serial killers. This is most likely due to influences such as, in the Victorian era, people did not usually travel, and their access to media, mostly news papers, were usually local. This would have made people feel like there was a whole world of the unknown, and monsters seemed like a concept that was not completely ludicrous, but in fact quite possible. In modern society, we are aware of a large amount of what goes on in the world we live, as well as seeing a large quantity of it. Modern media allows us to know most of the horrific stories that go on, therefore, our fears are more on those that could be around us; murder, terrorism, torture, war and even the fear of an apocalypse. This means that modern day horror simply touches on monsters more out of tradition, and tend to not scare people in the same way that modern fears do.

Research - Film: Excision vs. Twilight - The Modern Vampire?

Following my post about what our fears were in the Victorian era (fantasy monsters) vs. our fears in modern day (real life fears influenced by media) in my 'What is Horror?' post: I pose the question as to whether the Vampire concept is phasing out / used for tradition purposes, or if it is simply evolving? In my opinion, the answer is both.
I have chosen the films 'Excision' and 'Twilight' to look at the modern Vampire. I want to consider the evolution of the Vampire concept to now, how it is interpreted, and how I can use this information to create my own design.

Traditional Modern Vampire - 'Twilight':

In Twilight, Vampires are of a super-human nature and are extremely mysterious and compelling. Their Vampire features are what makes them attractive to the human - Light hazel eyes, glowing white skin, and brooding facial features. The Vampires have super-human physicality too, with super strength, speed and even mind-reading. These attributes are quite traditional to the old ideas of a Vampire, but adapted slightly so that the Vampires could fit into modern society.

Twilight - Edward Cullent. (n.d.). [image] Available at: http://www.fanpop.com/clubs/edward-cullen/images/30128794/title/imagens-edward-twilight-photo [Accessed 16 Feb. 2016].

Cullens at highschool. (2010). [image] Available at: http://cdn2-b.examiner.com/sites/default/files/styles/image_content_width/hash/58/32/Lunch%20Scene2_1.jpg?itok=vhAvHIMS [Accessed 16 Feb. 2016].

Despite Vampires mostly belonging to the 'Horror' genre typically, Twilight has not gone for this angle, despite blood, death and lust still coming into the story line. This is likely due to a modern audience being immune to the horrors of a Vampire, but instead it has been made into a  film mostly targeted to preteen girls, a very different audience to that original Vampire concept intention. This is most likely due to the Vampire concept being worn out of impact, and instead has been left for a whole new take on it.

Due to my perception of the Twilight film, I do not feel that the Twilight Vampire is something that I wish for my final design to be inspired by. I do not feel that the adaptation of it's features to fit into modern society has a big enough impact for the character I am designing for, therefore I aim to distance myself from such approach.

Modern Horror Vampire - Excision

Excision is a film about a teenage girl who's dream is to become a surgeon. She suffers with mental health condition Borderline Personality Disorder and has a fetish for blood. The film features various scenes of her vivid dreams both relating to her wish to become a surgeon and her sexual interest in blood which feature of an extreme and horror nature. Although this film is not explicitly about a Vampire, the character's physical features are closely linked to that of a traditional vampire - Deathly pale complexion, lack of color to even the lips, very thin and of course has a strong link with blood as a means for boosting her as an individual.

Excision Film. (2012). [image] Available at: http://batcavereturns.blogspot.co.uk/2012/10/excision.html [Accessed 16 Feb. 2016].

Excision - Dream Scene. (2012). [image] Available at: http://www.ohmygore.com/critique-excision-1049.html [Accessed 16 Feb. 2016].

The basis of this character could have easily just have been an actual vampire, but this would not have as high impact as a Horror film as the character adaptation that has been undergone. As I stated before, modern fears are often around the fear of Psychos - people who are mentally unhinged and therefore a threat to those around them. The film covers traditional vampire values: death, blood and lust, only this time it is done to shock. In the ending of the film, the character drugs her sister and a neighbour who she has captured (and hates) to do a lung transfer which she has innovated herself, killing her neighbour and also her sister who she aimed to cure from Cystic Fibrosis.
This film is set in a typical highschool movie way, which brings it closer to home for those who are watching it as the film isn't a fantasy - it is a reality.

Excision Highschool Scene. (2012). [image] Available at: http://www.theguardian.com/film/2012/nov/01/excision-review [Accessed 16 Feb. 2016].

As the aim of the brief is to adapt my character's description for the screen, my audience will be a modern one. Therefore, this film may be a great source of inspiration on how to use vampire-esque characteristics but still make a big impact to a modern audience. Excessive use of blood and gore with a hint of reality may make for a great modern horror design.

Research - The 'Gothic' Genre

The term 'Gothic' relates to a few concepts: The sinister, the supernatural, horror and Medieval Architecture.
Gothic typically refers to ideas around the Victorian era, although this is not exclusive.
The definition behind Gothic relates to the re-occurring ideas seen in Gothic Horror. Most Gothic Horror novels are set in castles or Monistrys with the descriptions involving architecture of a Medieval nature, which we are now still accustomed to finding unnerving in modern day society. Typically, key protagonists of the Gothic Genre are of a supernatural nature and ideas that are iconic even in books or films today (e.g Vampires and the hit 'Twilight' book and film series).

The Gothic genre is not purely visual, it forces the reader or viewer to become immersed in the psychological issues that is depicts. Re-occurring psychological themes include the fear of being trapped - whether that is physically or within one's self. The idea of being buried alive, a common fear, is often addressed in the Gothic Horror genre.
The fear of being out of control of your actions and/or having your self altered by drugs or a supernatural being. Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde is a good example of this fear being played, where you have an inner evil inside yourself. Dracula presents the idea of being controlled by another being.

A clashing of past and present is often used in the Gothic genre - whether that be the outdated architecture or curses and creatures from the past that effect the present.

Research - Influences in High Definition Make-up Design

Pinterest, (2015). High Definition. [image] Available at: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/534943261964427709/ [Accessed 8 Mar. 2016].

Here I am going to look at the considerations for a make-up that is done for a High Definition camera. The reason I am look at this is 1) because my assessment's final images will be taken with a HD camera and 2) I am designing for film/TV, which the majority of modern filming is shot in HD. It is important to consider how make-up looks under a HD camera as it is how the audience will view it. In most cases, obvious make-up, particularly the base, is undesirable as it is unappealing to the eye and can also effect the realism of a character.

Colour

With HD cameras, the colour red is easily picked up and therefore means that any redness on or under make-up can appear quite visible. A good way to tackle this is by using a green concealor under foundation or any other base. This is because green is opposite red on the colourwheel which means it completely eliminates it. This technique is particularly useful for those who suffer from acne or rosacea. When creating a character with everyday make-up, if you opt for a lipstick with a red tone, it is best to not go for something that is not too bright or bold as this is something the camera will pick up and make the audiences eyes focus on this unless this is relevant to the character.

Base

Due to small details being obvious, the texture of the base can be seen on the screen. This means foundations of a thick consistency, too much powder or general caked on make-up can be easily seen. A liquid foundation and liquid concealor is a good choice for a natural coverage. For a flawless coverage that looks natural on the skin, air brushing is a good technique as it is very light and not thick or textured. To set the make-up, a translucent powder that is applied sparingly, concentrating on the T-Zone (as this is the most common area for oil production) can be used or a setting spray.

Eyebrows

To add definition to eyebrows, a powder is more suitable than a eyebrow pencil as this gives a softer and more natural finish to the eyebrow as the risk with pencil is making them look to harsh and drawn on.

Double Checking

Before allowing a make-up to go in front of the camera, you need to look at the make-up very closely to ensure there are not even the smallest of imperfections to the make-up. This is because even the tiniest imperfection can be seen. A good way to check can also be to take a picture with a professional camera and zoom in to see anything that you hadn't noticed with the naked eye.